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By the Vinotechaire
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THE 1998 BORDEAUX VINTAGE
1998 will be remembered as an exceptional Merlot vintage.
In general, the wines are big, dark colored, and tannic... the complete opposite of the soft
and elegant 1997s. Almost all of the wines are exhibiting black fruit aromas (from the strong Merlot)
and plenty of color, acidity, and tannin. Additionally, the white Graves wines are stunning with a
strong Sauvignon Blanc aroma and flavor. The Sauternes are very fine with plenty of botrytis and high
acidity... we now have three very good vintages in a row from Sauternes.
Château Mouton Rothschild 1998, Pauillac
The Wine Advocate: 90-92. This powerful, tannic, masculine-styled
Mouton is a vin de garde (a wine to keep). Along with the vintage's
harsh, high tannin, it exhibits good density and enough concentration,
extract, and richness to balance its structure and tannic ferocity.
Patience will be warranted. The Wine Spectator: 90-94.
The 1997 BORDEAUX VINTAGE
In general, the 1997 Bordeaux wines have soft, round tannins, unlike
the mouth-searing tannins of the 1996 vintage.
One would think that because of the softness of the wines, 1997 would
be a Merlot vintage. This is true of the right-bank wines, but on the
left bank Cabernet was king again. The Cabernet Franc harvest was not
very good for either bank, except for a small area in Saint-Estèphe.
The star grape of the 1997 vintage was Petit Verdot, though very little
of it is planted in Bordeaux.
"1997 Bordeaux is a consumer-friendly vintage. Most of the wines will
be ready to enjoy before the '95 or '96s. The vintage is fruity with
round, soft tannins that will drink well for ten years or so."
Clyde Beffa, Jr.
Château Haut Batailley 1997, Pauillac
The Wine Advocate: This supple, lushly-styled Pauillac will have significant
crowd appeal. Because of its low acidity and evolved style, the 1997 deserves
consumers' attention. You will enjoy its forward, concentrated, cassis/blackberry
notes intertwined with coffee, smoke, spice, and chocolate. Lush and hedonistic.
Château Soutard 1997, Saint-Emilion
The Wine Advocate: This has become one of Bordeaux's most popular wines because
of its unabashed, exuberant, blackberry/cassis fruit character, and full-bodied,
hedonistic appeal. There is excellent ripe fruit, soft tannin, low acidity, and
a delicious, easy-going personality. It is a ripe, soft, attractive, evolved Bordeaux.
Château Mouton Rothschild 1997, Pauillac
The Wine Advocate: One of the most forward and developed Moutons over
recent years, it possesses all the charm and fleshiness this vintage
can provide. The wine exhibits an open-knit nose of cedar wood, blackberry
liqueur, cassis, and coffee. Fleshy, ripe, and mouth-filling, with low
acidity, soft tannin, and admirable concentration and length, this
delicious Pauillac will be drinkable in 2-3 years, and should age for
15 plus. Impressive.
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