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Cellar News
By the Vinotechaire

THE 1998 BORDEAUX VINTAGE
1998 will be remembered as an exceptional Merlot vintage. In general, the wines are big, dark colored, and tannic... the complete opposite of the soft and elegant 1997s. Almost all of the wines are exhibiting black fruit aromas (from the strong Merlot) and plenty of color, acidity, and tannin. Additionally, the white Graves wines are stunning with a strong Sauvignon Blanc aroma and flavor. The Sauternes are very fine with plenty of botrytis and high acidity... we now have three very good vintages in a row from Sauternes.

Château Mouton Rothschild 1998, Pauillac
The Wine Advocate: 90-92.
This powerful, tannic, masculine-styled Mouton is a vin de garde (a wine to keep). Along with the vintage's harsh, high tannin, it exhibits good density and enough concentration, extract, and richness to balance its structure and tannic ferocity. Patience will be warranted. The Wine Spectator: 90-94.

The 1997 BORDEAUX VINTAGE
In general, the 1997 Bordeaux wines have soft, round tannins, unlike the mouth-searing tannins of the 1996 vintage. One would think that because of the softness of the wines, 1997 would be a Merlot vintage. This is true of the right-bank wines, but on the left bank Cabernet was king again. The Cabernet Franc harvest was not very good for either bank, except for a small area in Saint-Estèphe. The star grape of the 1997 vintage was Petit Verdot, though very little of it is planted in Bordeaux.

"1997 Bordeaux is a consumer-friendly vintage. Most of the wines will be ready to enjoy before the '95 or '96s. The vintage is fruity with round, soft tannins that will drink well for ten years or so."
Clyde Beffa, Jr.

Château Haut Batailley 1997, Pauillac
The Wine Advocate: This supple, lushly-styled Pauillac will have significant crowd appeal. Because of its low acidity and evolved style, the 1997 deserves consumers' attention. You will enjoy its forward, concentrated, cassis/blackberry notes intertwined with coffee, smoke, spice, and chocolate. Lush and hedonistic.

Château Soutard 1997, Saint-Emilion
The Wine Advocate: This has become one of Bordeaux's most popular wines because of its unabashed, exuberant, blackberry/cassis fruit character, and full-bodied, hedonistic appeal. There is excellent ripe fruit, soft tannin, low acidity, and a delicious, easy-going personality. It is a ripe, soft, attractive, evolved Bordeaux.

Château Mouton Rothschild 1997, Pauillac
The Wine Advocate: One of the most forward and developed Moutons over recent years, it possesses all the charm and fleshiness this vintage can provide. The wine exhibits an open-knit nose of cedar wood, blackberry liqueur, cassis, and coffee. Fleshy, ripe, and mouth-filling, with low acidity, soft tannin, and admirable concentration and length, this delicious Pauillac will be drinkable in 2-3 years, and should age for 15 plus. Impressive.

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